Molé: The Golden Path to Aztec Delight

One crucial step to becoming a good jazz cook is the preparation and storage of condiments. These can be as diverse as differently flavored and rendered fats, salts, or dressings. For example I rendered and have on hand bacon fat, soffrito infused pork fat, ham fat, banana leaf roasted pork fat, and schmaltz. Each of these has a unique flavor profile and not only saves me time when I need to get flavor up fast, but they are a frugal use of special ingredients. The huge Christmas ham I got from the Moore’s was not cheap, so getting a stock from the bone (which I froze), stew from the simmered meat bits (dinner that week), and a pint of smoky rendered fat (on hand in the fridge) in addition to the initial delectable holiday roast is the way to really make this food investment pay dividends. To do otherwise is wasteful on many accounts. For more on this philosophy I recommend How to Cook A Wolf by M.F.K. Fisher. So, having flavor punching ingredients on hand is key to getting great meals together on the fly. As implied, it takes a small investment of time initially, and overcoming inertia is the hardest part. So you will have to motivate yourself a bit. It’s worth it.
Molé is one such condiment that fits this description. I think that molé derives from the Spanish word molido meaning ‘ground.’ Guacamole is ‘ground’ avocado. Get it? So, molé is simply a ground spice paste used to flavor Latin dishes. These condiments are traditionally ground with a coarse mortar and pestle, but we will use a blender. There are two key phases to making and using molé. First you must assemble and simmer the paste. Molés are diverse so make them however you feel but there are some basic components: whole spices, chiles, fatty seeds, and liquid. Pictured you see cumin, coriander, star anise and cinnamon as whole spices. I also recommend annatto (achiote). But use whatever you like.
Any type of chiles may be used, and a mixture is best, but milder ones make up the bulk as the chile contributes a significant amount of volume, flavor, and texture to the molé and using many fiery ones can create an overpowering sauce. Pictured are guajillo chilles (dried red Anaheims)- an outstanding workhorse dried chile. Consider 8-12 in a 1qt batch of molé. Also look for Anchos (dried poblano chiles) and Pasillas for their sweet herbal notes. Chipotles are dried, smoked jalapenos and offer outstanding smoky, meaty flavor as well as high heat. Yes, you can use fresh chiles in season to make molés and they are correspondingly bright from their fresh ingredients.
Any nut can work as a fatty seed for molés. The pictured pumpkin seeds (pepitas) are a classic staple of Latin food and work great. You can also use sesame or sunflower seeds, or even peanuts. These create great body in the sauce and offer excellent nutrition to boot. I would include the famed chocolate in this category. Often added to dark molés, bitter chocolate is grated into the sauce towards the end of the cooking process to add smoky, savory, and earthy complexity to the sauce. Tomato puree, stock, water, or combinations thereof are obvious candidates for liquid sauce bases.
Now, assembly:
1). Heat some oil on medium and fry the whole spices and dry chiles. Crack up the cinnamon first if using. After a minute or two add some chopped onion and garlic. Be very careful to not burn the spices. Your goal is to flavor the oil with the spices. Cook the whole thing over medium high heat until the onions are browning. 2). Add the seeds and allow them to toast in the hot oil. Add some fat if necessary. Again be careful to not burn the seeds. These are volatile ingredients and easily overdone.
3) Add the liquid – a quart or so is a good volume, but remember your goal is a thick paste-like sauce so proportion your ingredients accordingly. Simmer until the chiles are tender and the sauce has reduced 25%.
4). Allow to cool a bit and then transfer the whole thing into a high power blender and purée. Transfer to a convenient jar or package into zipper bags and freeze flat.
5). Use as a rub/marinade, to finish cooked beans, or best of all to make taco filling. Just sauté some onions, add the meat (or vegetarian substitute ), and when brown, add a little oil and a few dollops of molé. The seasonings will fry in the oil and infuse the dish with the complex flavors of authentic food.
Just keep some on hand and I guarantee you will find uses for it from grilled corn to fish tacos.

Guanciale

This is one of the few recipes I will ever post. Not because I am a jerk, but because I believe most home cooking should be based on what you have and a technique that works, not upon a recipe from a book that looks great but requires running three errands to complete. Guanciale is in itself a great recipe replacer. If you have some on hand - an easy enough thing to do- then you can always start there when you get home from work and have hungry birds to feed. Just gently fry it in some olive oil, add onions and garlic and whatever else you have on hand for a great meal. With tomato product it becomes pasta or pizza sauce. With carrots, celery root and leftover Lima beans it becomes stew. With potatoes, kale, and eggs it becomes a great frittata. Guanciale, and pork fat in general is the great bridge between 'good' and totally satiating. Ok enough talk already.
SPICE RUB
1 pigs jowl - rinsed and patted dry.
2.5g juniper berries
5g fennel seed
2 bay leaves
5g black peppercorns
3-6 dried sage leaves
1/2 star anise
VERY gently toast the above except the sage. Cool, add the sage and grind. Contrary to popular belief spices should NOT SMOKE when toasting. Smoke is disappearing flavor compounds!
GARLIC PASTE
10g red chili or flakes
4 garlic cloves Crush the garlic.
Mix in the chili flakes or crush in the garlic, we love the mortar and pestle for this.
Now, rub the spices into the jowl, then smear the garlic paste over it smoothly. Layer a bed of sea or kosher salt in a non-reactive dish (stainless or glass is good) and place the seasoned jowl into it. Cover with more salt. It should look like it is buried in a good 3"-4" snow fall (not literally 3-4" of salt). Cover with plastic with a few vent holes and refrigerate for 20 days. Mark the finish date on the container so you know when to pull it from the salt. This, aside from the salt, is the only really critical direction I've given you so far. After 20 days, exhume and brush and/or lightly rinse off the excess salt, gently pat dry preserving as much of the spice coating as possible. Now you can either hang the jowl for a month in a cool dark place with a light parchment paper or cheesecloth shroud or transfer to a wire rack over a pan, lightly draped with vented parchment or plastic and back into the fridge for 30 days. An auxiliary fridge that runs at about 50 degrees F is great for this. Give it a try, there is so much salt involved that the process is fairly foolproof and jowls are small so if you do mess up your losses are minimal. It could be a whole ham right! To use just cut off a strip like bacon, dice or chop the strip into pieces, fry gently in a little oil and off you go.